Articles by Master Gardeners

If you are writing articles for your local papers please sign your name as: Your Name, Master Gardener Volunteer, UVM Extension. If you would like a copy of your article placed on the web please send a copy to nancy.hulett@uvm.edu

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new.gif (147 bytes)THE MIGHTY EMPRESS!
by Dr. Mark C. Starrett, Associate Professor of Horticulture, UVM
(from the Friends of the Hort Farm Newsletter September 2001) (posted 4/8/02)

Some of you may have wandered onto the UVM campus this summer and found an unusual sight! There are plants that appear to be giant sunflowers growing along Stafford Hall in the Horticulture Club's annual plant border, but what is odd about them is that they are 30 feet tall with leaves 3-4 feet across! Well… these plants aren't sunflowers at all! These plants are called, "Empress Tree" or "Princess Tree" (Paulownia tomentosa) and are native to China and were introduced to the United States around 1840.

The tree was named in 1835 after Princess Anna Pavlovna (1795-1865) on the occasion of her 40th birthday. Anna was daughter of Czar Paul I of Russia and was the wife of Prince Willem of the Netherlands when it was named for her.

There are several interesting stories regarding the introduction of the "Empress Tree" to our continent. It seems that the seed capsules when dry are very light in weight and were used as we would use styrofoam "peanuts" today as packing material (or, hopefully, those "peanuts" made out of cornstarch which dissolve in water and are more environmentally-friendly then the styrofoam!). Anyway, the capsules tended to open during transit and seeds would blow out of the packing crates. There are estimates that each capsule contains approximately 2,000 seeds! Since most of the movement of goods during this period was by train, you will find that many of the trees originally sprouted up along railroad tracks. This is one reason why this plant has become so widespread across the U.S. The plant had spread from the east Coast to California by 1856.

The other reason this tree has dispersed so readily across the country is due to the plant's ability to adapt to most soil types and climatic conditions. Unfortunately for us, the above-ground portion of the tree is not really hardy in Vermont. It may make it through a few winters but any temperatures below 0°F typically causes severe bud and stem damage. It takes several years for the tree to become mature enough to flower, so in Vermont, we won't get to see the wonderful, 3" lavender, tube-shaped flowers in summer. Instead, trees grown in our climate will produce huge leaves and send up tremendous growth each year from the roots! I think this feature alone is good enough to grow the plant in any garden. The sheer size can add a bold and dramatic statement in anyone's garden! The trees also make an "instant" hedge to screen a view in summer or can provide a vertical element in any landscape design.

Historically, Empress Tree has been used as a source of timber in China, with records back as far as 2,600 years ago! The use of this tree for timber has been increasing dramatically around the world. There are presently between 4 and 5 million acres now being grown for timber worldwide. The lumber is a light golden-tan color. It is light in weight with a straight grain that does not crack, warp or split. In Japan, where the wood is highly prized for carving, it is often used for funereal boxes. The wood is also carved into clogs. Empress tree is purportedly the fastest growing hardwood species on earth and for this reason is a valuable crop for timber or as a renewable biofuel supply.

Empress Tree has several other quality characteristics including a fibrous root system which can stabilize soils and won't buckle sidewalks. The deep root system is capable of exploring and obtaining mineral nutrients below the zone where most other tree species are capable. These nutrients are found in the leaves and stems of the plant. The leaves are especially high in nitrogen, and in the timber groves where they are grown, the leaves are raked, baled and used for animal fodder. The leaves also decompose readily and are a valuable addition to any compost.

Empress Trees are amenable to most soil types but must have good drainage. They do not like "wet feet"! Sand and loam are preferable, but they will tolerate clay soils. The more sun and heat; the faster the new growth. The ones planted next to Stafford Hall are on the west-side of the building and therefore get ample sun and heat. The map below details the areas where Empress Tree may be considered for use as a timber production tree. They typically die back when temperatures go below 0°F.

So if you are interested in giving this tree a try, plan to visit The Friends of the Hort. Farm plant sales next year.

When: At the Rhododendron Walk and Plant Sale on Thursday, June 6, 2002 starting at 6 p.m OR at the second Rhododendron Walk and Plant Sale on Saturday, June 8, 2002 at 1 p.m.

For further information about the Empress Tree, visit one of the following websites:
http://www.idrc.ca/library/document/071235/
http://www.paulowniatrees.com/
http://www.paulowniatrees.org/
http://www.paulownia.com/
http://www.dragontrees.com/
http://www.paulownia.org/

Certify Your Backyard, It's For the Birds!
by Linda McLenithan, Master Gardener Volunteer
(Presenting at the Arlington Garden Club in March.) (posted 2/2202)

The National Wildlife Federation's Backyard Wildlife Habitat program was started in 1973 to acknowledge and encourage individuals who garden for wildlife. The NWF will formally acknowledge your efforts with a national certification program. The program encourages everyone to plan their landscape with the needs of wildlife in mind. There are over 30,000 backyard sites certified in the program including homeowners, businesses, community groups and schools; individuals and groups that are all interested in creating wildlife and environmentally friendly landscapes. So, how do you go about becoming a certified site? Everyone who provides the four basic habitat elements and who takes steps to conserve natural resources in their yard may apply for certification. The four basic elements are as follows:
food, water, cover and places to raise young

Access your space for these basic requirements for survival. In addition to your bird feeders, do you plant native perennials and annuals suited to the site conditions to supply food? Native plantings, including shrubs, flowers and trees eliminates the need for chemical fertilizers, herbicides and supplemental watering. To find out which plants are native to your area, contact your local extension office, in Vermont, the web site is http://pss.uvm.edu/mg/mg. Try to provide a year-round water source. Evergreens and shrubs provide protective cover from weather and predators. Rock, leaf and mulch piles as well as that Vermont staple- the wood pile- can also provide good cover. Your evergreens and shrubs will also provide a place for many species to raise their young. Dead and dying trees have their uses as cavity-nesting species such as owls and flying squirrels will be happy to call them home. A red squirrel chose one of my bluebird boxes to nurture her babies in last spring and since the boxes have been up for 4 years with no bluebirds nesting in them (although they've checked them out many times) I thought well, why not? Someone wants them. The babies were cute and although everyone told me "oh, you'll be sorry, you'll never get birds now", I didn't have the heart to evict them. In fact, I even went so far as to buy squirrel food and leave it at the base of the post so Mama squirrel wouldn't have to go too far for food. Well, the babies grew up and left the nest and I thoroughly cleaned the box. My reward? Bluebirds used my houses for the first time ever that summer!

To receive an application go to the National Wildlife Federation's website at http://www.nwf.org and click on education, then to Backyard Wildlife Habitat Program or call them at 1-800-822-9919. Once you receive your application, fill it out, (a great project to do with children - have them help you identify plants and trees) then send it in your application with a check for $15.00. You can include photos that may be used on their website. You will receive a handsome, personalized certificate from the NWF suitable for framing, recognizing your yard as an official Backyard Wildlife Habitat. Your habitat will be assigned its own unique number and entered into the National Register. Once certified you are eligible to purchase the Backyard Wildlife Habitat sign suitable for posting outside in your habitat. You will also receive the Habitats quarterly newsletter free of charge. If you'd like to visit my site it's # 30614, one of only five listed in Vermont.

Whether you're just beginning, or you've been providing wildlife habitat for years, your efforts are valuable to wildlife and worthy of recognition.

KINDERGARDENING
By Diana Lawrence, Master Gardener volunteer, University of Vermont Extension

Each newly trained student from the University of Vermont Extension Master Gardener Program is required to contribute 40 hours of volunteer time in garden-related activities to his or her community. As a graduate of the program, I can say that this is hardly onerous, since once you've spent the winter studying plants in the course, you can't wait to do something about it.

Although the nature of the volunteering is up to the individual, four criteria must be met: the project must be educational, it must be horticultural in nature, there can be no compensation, and it must in some way strengthen the Master Gardener Program. I chose to do a little "kindergardening." These activities are well-suited for early elementary school teachers to try in the classroom, or for parents to do with their kids at home.

My son's kindergarten teacher graciously allowed me to try my hand at teaching. Although I'd never been at the front of the classroom before, my fears soon dissipated. Children take to plants like ducks to water. You can smell plants, feel them, taste them, play with them, grow them, and read about them. This means that no matter which way a child learns best, there's a plant for the purpose!

We began by studying seeds and photosynthesis, reading books that described germination and the conditions plants need to grow. While the kids painted their individual clay pots (using nature stencils and muffin pans filled with paint), we talked about different kinds of seeds, how they travel, and the flow of food and water. I spoke about dicots and monocots, and we pretended to be roots, sucking up water through straws.

During my second visit, we potted bean and sunflower seeds, read stories about composting and beneficial insects, and colored pages with butterflies, ladybugs, bean plants, and sunflowers that I downloaded from the Internet. That visit was followed by a session on seed art, where we drew pictures of gardens with glue and decorated them with dried peas, sunflower seeds, pinto beans, and birdseed. We discussed the ways plants contribute to our lives, giving us medicine, shade, oxygen, food, paper, fabric, and perfume.

Bulbs were the most fun. We read a book on the parts of a plant and learned what a bulb was, and then talked about how daffodils and tulips grow. We used yellow baking cups, tongue depressors, and green construction paper to make daffodils of our own, then planted paperwhites and amaryllis and watched them grow, day by day. The scent was overpowering, and the children found it fascinating.

Best of all, we dissected onions and garlic bulbs, tasting them and peeling them until the classroom smelled like an Italian restaurant. I had to go home and make spaghetti afterwards.

Several of the children had never been in a garden, so I brought a number of herbs to school for them to smell and taste. We discussed the differentways to use parsley, dill, cilantro, mint, sage, and rosemary, sitting in a circle on the carpet while I passed the plants around and each child touched the leaves, inhaled the fragrance, and took a nibble ("So that's what makes pickles taste so good!" one of the kids exclaimed.). Then we made lavender sachets for Mother's Day out of dried lavender, ribbons, and circles of chintz fabric cut with pinking shears.

Last, we took a trip to a local greenhouse to learn about propagation, different varieties of plants, and the conditions flowers need to germinate and grow. Each child came home with a six-pack of pansies (which my son called "cupcake flowers" because of their square root balls). One boy busied himself tearing all of the flowers off the plants, which gave me the opportunity to talk about the benefits of deadheading. I just never told his mother what he had done!

PLANT A WILDFLOWER PATCH
By Judy Lochbrunner, MG intern, class of 2001 (posted 8/1/01)

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As summer ends and fall approaches, it may be time to think about adding a patch of wildflowers to your garden. But what exactly are wildflowers? Fortunately the definition is as broad as the choice of flowers, sites and climates. Wildflowers are flowering plants that grow in a natural uncultivated state or survive in a given area with little care. [1] Your wildflower bed should be prepared in the fall. The planning, time, and work you devote to your future wildflower patch now (or in the next few months) will pay off in exquisite blooms next summer, which receive little routine maintenance. Begin your plans for the wildflower patch by choosing a small patch. Too large of an area may tax your available time (and your energy), prevent proper site preparation and prevent routine maintenance. A smaller site will allow some experimentation.

The first question to ask concerns why you would plant a wildflower patch? According to the May/June 2001 issue of “Rodale Organic Gardening”, many common annuals and perennials used in wildflower mixes attract beneficial insects. By providing a “home” for these beneficial insects, they will be on duty to control “bad guys” in your yard. In other words, the wildflower patch can act as the base for your own “pest patrol”. Wildflower patches can enhance your garden design. They add an element of fun and play to clipped and groomed gardens. They add a color “riot” to contrast with the cool peaceful green of a lawn. In addition, if you have a problem area, one that may be too sunny, dry, shady or wet, wildflowers specifically chosen for their tolerance of one of these “problems” will provide a beautiful solution. A wildflower patch started from seed is a real bargain. Growing from seed provides a tremendous number of plants for only the price of the seeds and your labor. Since conservation of rare, threatened and endangered wildflowers requires that they be propagated from seed or cuttings and not be dug or disturbed in their habitat, many wildflower seeds and seed mixes are available commercially in stores, catalogs and on the internet; so that gardeners can easily diversify the plants in their yard while leaving natural areas untouched.[2] Finally, a wildflower patch invites children, dog-walkers, joggers and neighbors to stop and enjoy! I have not had a problem with any of my wildflowers being picked or disturbed even though the beds are located next to the sidewalk and the street. Wildflowers are a “gift” you give to everyone. They will bring a smile, a memory, and a sense of beauty to whomever sees them.

The second question in planting a wildflower patch is weed control. A “no maintenance” wildflower patch does not exist. If you ignore your wildflower patch, it will not flourish. Yes, I agree that you see wildflowers along the roadside successfully competing with weeds, but the success of those wildflowers comes from the fact that they were planted in properly prepared, weed-free sites. In other words, competition is an area of weed control too often overlooked. Young plants are most susceptible to competition from weeds. Therefore, a properly prepared, weed-free site encourages quick germination of the wildflowers and an early development of the wildflower canopy which will suppress weed growth. Pay close attention to the recommended rate and distribution of wildflower seeds noted on the seed packet. Wildflowers too thickly sown will compete with themselves and encourage dieback. With dieback comes open areas that encourage weeds.[3]

Soil and site preparation is the next question to be answered. Begin by familiarizing yourself with the site. Match the cultural requirements of the wildflowers to the site. ( for example, do not try to grow a moisture-loving wildflower on a dry site.) Soil tests are highly recommended. The soil test provides information on the soil pH and fertility level. Wildflowers usually prefer a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.0. (Check with your local Extension service for information on obtaining a test kit.) The existing vegetation (grass and weeds) must be removed. You can either remove this top layer (sod can be a great addition to your compost pile) or use a nonselective postemergent herbicide containing glyphosate (Roundup) only if you follow the directions on the label. (Read the directions fully and carefully.) If you use the herbicide, those of you in southern climates need to wait at least 10 days and those of us in more northern climates need to wait a few weeks before LIGHTLY tilling the soil. (Deep tilling brings more weeds seeds to the surface.) Amend the soil according to the results of your soil test and don’t forget to add organic matter (rotted manure, compost, chopped leaves, etc).

Seeds and seed mixes are the next question. I have had the best success with seed mixes specifically blended for the area. Stay away from bargain seeds from discount stores. These tend to be generic mixes that contain seeds not suited to your climate and the results will be annuals that won’t re-seed, perennials that are not hardy enough to survive the winter in cold climates or perennials that are not drought-resistant to survive the heat in warmer climates. Spend the extra money for good quality mixes blended for your area from seed companies you already know and trust. Smooth out the soil with a rake and follow the directions on the seed packets for sowing. Finish by lightly covering the seed with packaged potting soil and ensuring that the seeds are in contact with the soil. I recommend the “baby-step” method. Simply take “baby-steps” covering the entire wildflower patch. This is one time you can have your children walk all over the flower garden! Be sure that the wildflower patch receives enough moisture for the first 4-6 weeks. Water if there is insufficient rain. Gardeners in zone 7-11 will plant the wildflower seed in the autumn months from September into December to take advantage of cooler temperatures and wetter conditions. Those of us in zones 1-6 must wait until early spring to sow our seed; but we can relax during the cold winter months knowing that the patch is ready for spring.

Lastly is the question of maintenance. Wildflowers require low or little maitenance once they are established. Supplemental watering is not required and fertilizing is usually not necessary unless the plants exhibit signs of nutrient deficiencies. Periodic weeding, on the other hand, is necessary. Removing weeds by hand when they are young will prevent any weed “infestation” and is the preferred method of control in an established wildflower patch.[4] The final maintenance requirement is an annual mowing. All wildflower patches require an end of season mowing. Mowing has three objectives: first to prevent the establishment pines and hardwood trees in many parts of the country; second to disperse the wildflower seeds for re-seeding. (Be careful to not remove seed heads from beds during your autumn clean up. If your are trimming with hand tools, cut off the seed heads from the stalks to place in the wildflower patch and place the stalks in your compost pile.) thirdly, mowing improves the appearance of your bed by removing dead plant material and making a neater appearance during the winter months.[5]

One final note, the mix of flowers in your patch will change over time and seasonal growing conditions. The element of “surprise” is one of the most captivating characteristics of the wildflower patch. Every year brings a new surprise. Established wildflower patches can be “rejuvenated” by adding a fresh seed mix package at the appropriate planting time and being careful not to overly disturb the soil. Enjoy!

[1] Clemson Extension, Home and Garden Information Center, HGIC 1157 “Wildflowers”, http://hgic.clemson.edu
[2] Denny Schrock, Department of Horticulture, University of Missouri-Columbia, Agricultural publication G6660 “Wildflowers in the Home Landscape”, http://muextension.missouri.edu
[3] Lena Gallitano, W.A. Skroch, D. A Bailey, North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, Leaflet No:645 “Weed Management for Wildflowers”, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu
[4] Lena Gallitano, W.A. Skroch, D. A Bailey, North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, Leaflet No:645 “Weed Management for Wildflowers”, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu
[5] Lena Gallitano, W.A. Skroch, D. A Bailey, North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, Leaflet No:645 “Weed Management for Wildflowers”, http://www.ces.ncsu.edu
Additional references:
*William Cullima,The New England Wild Flower Society Guide to Growing and Propagating Wildflowers of the United States and Canada,Houghton Mifflin Company, 2000
*Wildseed Farms 2001 Wildflower Reference Guide & Seed Catalog, www.wildseedfarms.com

GARDENER DIGS DEEP FOR EXPERTISE IN FIELD (Bennington Banner 6/30-7/1/01)
Carrie Post, Special to Banner (posted 7/13/01)

digsphoto.jpg (21058 bytes) "Gardening is a lesson in patience and looking ahead," says Master Gardener Linda McLenithan of Sunderland. "Things don't have to be perfect. Those gardens in magazines took years."

Master Gardeners are university-trained volunteers in the community. The University of Vermont offers Master Gardener classes around the state at interactive television classroom sites. McLenithan took the course in Rutland. She works as a secretary at Sunderland Elementary School. Her husband, Kevin, is parts manager at Morrison Automotive in Bennington. Nine years ago, the McLenithans and Suki, their Seal-point Siamese, moved to a one-room schoolhouse in Sunderland. The couple transformed the old post-and-beam structure into a home with a light, lovely open interior, while keeping the schoolhouse charm. Then they tackled the gardens.

"It started with feeding birds," Linda said, "and wanting to have hummingbirds and butterflies. You want plants for them. I noticed articles by people signing 'Master Gardener' after their names. I went surfing on the web to learn about it. The training gives you a new look at nature and the environment, from the ground up. You have to have good soil and amend it with organic materials. You have to find the right spots for plants, and they need to be zone-appropriate. There are so many gorgeous plants you can have."

UVM professors and other experts teach classes in botany, plant diseases and pest management. Master Gardener candidates learn about flowers, small fruits, trees, turf and weeds, and of course, vegetables. Master Gardener programs can be found in other states and share the mission "to promote successful, safe, and environmentally prudent home horticultural practices through education and community activities." "The class was great," McLenithan said. "The professors said it was like having a semester's work packed into three hours (one evening) a week."

Now that she has completed the 14-week class, McLenithan is required to donate 40 hours of service to the community in order for her to become certified. McLenithan's project is a summer camp enrichment, "Sunderland Junior Gardeners," for 16 children in grades 4 through 6, with Charlene Allison, a Sunderland teacher. Anyone may contact UVM's Extension Service to request a project but it must relate to gardening and be volunteer.

McLenithan advocates the use of organic methods when possible. "A lot of people are ready to hit the bottles to get rid of whatever is plaguing them, but the simplest organic method for getting rid of pests is to pick them off. Birds eat insects, too, and you don't want to poison the birds," McLenithan said.

Another socially responsible initiative of the Master Gardeners is called "Plant a Row for the Hungry." You don't have to be a Master Gardener to donate food. The Equinox Nursery, on Route 7A in Manchester, will accept donations on Tuesdays and Sundays. The UVM Master Gardener Program can provide the location of the site nearest you, and volunteers will wash and sort the produce and deliver it to the Food Shelf. They even take zucchini.

The Master Gardener Program is about more than horticultural production. Knowledge feeds ideas as nutrients feed plants. McLenithan enjoys the confidence she gained with additional training in the field, or the fields, she enjoys. She continues to update her gardening knowledge from UVM's Master Gardener website, and she made new friends in the training.

SUSTAINABLE LANDSCAPE DESIGN -PART 5
By Jennifer Johnson (posted 7/2/01)

English cottage gardens fronting white picket fences.Restored prairies that invite a slow stroll in the warm sun.This is my view of landscape design.So I can appreciate the irony of considering what I think of first in a design – looking good – in the final phase of a plan. But, building sustainability into the landscape by considering functionality, maintenance, environmental soundness, and cost-effectiveness (in that order) before aesthetics helps the design to thrive as it matures.Incorporating the elements of design while placing the plants in the landscape in the five steps I reviewed last month (trees, key plants, focal points/accents, plant groupings and mass plantings) will help the healthy landscape look attractive, too.

To begin, think of visual qualities like height and width, texture and color. Combine these visual, or primary elements of design, with the principles of design like balance, proportion, sequence, variety, and scale.Balance means an informal landscape will have a relatively similar weight (through size, quantity, texture and color) within each bed and in the overall design. The finer the plant’s texture, like grass, the more you’ll need.Select the size of each plant in proportion to the size of the bed and other plants using the “rule of 3’s”.That is, locate focal points in the bed 1/3 of the way between two points. A key plant should be 2/3 the height of the hard surface it’s anchoring to the ground. If you have three heights of plants in a bed, think in terms of equal bed space when deciding how much room to allow.Divide the space into thirds and fill 1/3 with tall plants, 1/3 with medium and 1/3 with short plants. Place the plants in a sequence that leads the eye through the bed, just as you placed the beds to invite the eye through the landscape.Add accents, which can change with the season, to break up the sequence and to lead eye. But don’t include so many they compete. Mix perennials with shrubs or woody plants to give a sense of permanence and winter interest. Use enough variety to create interest, but not busyness. Replicating mass plantings in different areas of the landscape ties the landscape together visually.Select plants in scale to the size of the bed, so they don’t overgrow space or crowd plants.

Color is tricky since plants don’t always bloom as described. My favorite tip is “when selecting colors, choose what you like and copy it.” Consider the size and location of the bed and the distance from which you’ll be viewing it. Closer beds can be busier. If it’s across the yard, use bigger clumps of plants or they’ll get lost. Warm colors(yellow, orange gold, red) make a large yard more intimate and cool colors (blue, purple, deep pink) make a small yard seem bigger.Warm colors pop out and are a good focal point. A monochromatic color scheme is easiest. White and green are neutral colors and useful for fillers, creating transitions, separating other colors, and creating unity throughout the bed.White looks neat at sun down.

After identifying the visual characteristics for each plant space, Then, consider the secondary elements of design, or the characteristics the plants need to grow, like soil and light conditions, hardiness, moisture, disease and insect resistance.Finally, select specific plants based on the characteristics identified. Many books present this information.Another great resource is the “SULIS Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series” at http://www.sustland.umn.edu, which includes loads of detailed information and links to a searchable database. Or go directly to the database at http://www.sustland.umn.edu/plant/index.html. Search the database by site requirements for a list of appropriate plants.The results may lead you to broaden your search or tweak your design.

I’m now a reformed random gardener, if only because I’ve found a new method to transform my landscape. With the arrival of winter nursery catalogues, summer transplants and fall clearance rescues, each plant has the right spot to thrive beautifully. And, even if I relocate I can take the design with me, modify it for my new space and tame the weed-filled beds I inevitably inherit back into an organized design.

new.gif (147 bytes)SUSTAINABLE LANDSCAPE DESIGN -PART 4
By Jennifer Johnson (posted 7/5/01)

I like lists. Lists that flow down the steps to success like water spilling over the Hinke’s waterfall during the garden tour. I thought I would conclude this series with simple instructions for transforming concept lines into a fantasy landscape. But, this class proved design is a combination of art and science that defies a simple outline to perfection. Yet, there are five steps to drawing plants into a design which satisfies my need for order. The elements of design applied throughout the process fuel my creative fire while identifying several plant options for each space appeals to the random gardener in me. Following are five steps to placing plants in the landscape and bringing the concept lines to earth.

Starting with the landscape plan, drawn to scale, with concept lines outlining flowing beds and features identified by function, the first step is to draw in the large trees. Trees canopy, frame and balance the home, save on energy costs, and start to give form on the ground to the concept lines drawn on paper so don’t skimp! The average city lot needs a minimum of four trees; at least one in front, in back and on each side. Draw a circle ¾ the mature size of a deciduous tree with the trunk (center of the circle) along the concept line and a circle the mature size of an evergreen with the branches (diameter of the circle) along the concept line.

Then, draw in key plants, which soften hard features like fences and decks and tie vertical building corners to the ground integrating them into the landscape. Draw a circle the mature size of a plant of any type, like shrubs, vines or trees depending on the size of the feature. The key plants should not be identical but carry equal weight – one flowering shrub on one side and three non-flowering shrubs on another for example. Include a minimum space of eight to twelve inches from the foundation to create an air pocket that increases energy efficiency and place them away from the drip line to reduce maintenance.

The third step is to include focal points and accent plants, like hard features and specimen plants, which draw the eye to areas you want to emphasize, like an entrance. They are drawn with a circle the diameter of the mature or full size and provide specific seasonal interests or color through flowers, fruit or leaves.

Then, include plants groupings, which have an odd number of the same plant closely placed in interlocking clusters so the eye doesn’t focus on a single plant yet can pick out individual mature plants. Draw a combination of circles which represent plants that will occupy an area, like a shrub border between properties or a perennial bed.

The fifth step is to draw in Mass Plantings, where many plants of the same species (often shrubs and groundcovers) are spaced closely together so you don’t see the individual plants. Draw a cluster of circles the mature size of the plant grouping. Mass plantings tie the landscape together visually, fill in empty spaces, set off the specimen plants, and most importantly, serve as the fudge factor. Since they are viewed as one lump, the actual number of plants can be changed. So, if your measurements are wrong or a hill affects the number of plants used, you can adjust this space without affecting the design.

These are the five steps to a Draft Design, which will become a completed landscape plan as specific plants and hard goods are selected for each space. In the next article of this series, I’ll share the elements of design that help locate the plant spaces and identify the short list of specific plants that will create a unified, functional fantasy design that ages beautifully.

MASTER GARDENERS: SPROUTING UP ALL OVER VERMONT
By Sarah Koehl (posted 6/11/01)

Keep your eyes and ears open! Two-hundred twenty-one gardeners-in-training were released, like a swarm of beneficial insects, on the state of Vermont this past month.

It all started last fall. I was reading Kitchen Gardener magazine, and came across an article mentioning so-and-so, who is a “Master Gardener in the state of Washington”. I had heard that phrase Master Gardener before, and began to wonder what exactly it meant. How do you become a Master Gardener? Who declares you a master? Do you have to have years of gardening life experience? Is it something I could do, with my apartment living, and limited gardening space?

A quick search on the Internet brought me to the Vermont Master Gardener Program. I inquired about the class, and ended up sending in my fees for the Basic Course, which started early in the year when snows were still blanketing the soil. Since February, I have been reading massive amounts of information on all sorts of subjects from soil science to pruning, and attending class for two and a half hours every Tuesday night. Our final session was May 15th.

The Master Gardener program is an arm of the Cooperative Extension system. There are Extension offices all over the country, connecting local governments and people to land grant universities and the Department of Agriculture. Here in our state it is associated with the University of Vermont, while in New York it would be Cornell, and in other states, other universities.

The Extension system was designed through the Smith Lever Act in 1914 to provide the public with information from these research centers and assist with agriculture. As it became increasingly necessary to provide this service to numerous homeowners, rather than one or two farmers in a given area, the volunteer Master Gardener program was created to lighten the load on Extension agents. Begun in Seattle, Washington in the 1970s, the program now exists in all fifty states, plus the District of Columbia and four Canadian provinces. Seattle, still in the forefront, even has a Master Composting program.

In Vermont there are over 650 currently active Master Gardeners, and my class consisted of 221 new enthusiasts. The thirteen week course was presented simultaneously all over the state: I went to the Vermont Interactive Television site in Waterbury, sat at a table with live microphones on it, and watched the lecturer in Burlington, or Brattleboro, or wherever he or she was that day. The entomologist lectured from our site, so we were able to see him in person. We could use our microphones to ask questions, which would then be broadcast to the rest of the sites. The lecturers were experts from UVM and the state Department of Agriculture. They covered topics like botany, propagation, disease control, landscaping, turf management, composting, fruits, vegetables, perennials, and everything in between. We had quite a bit of reading to do each week, and almost every lecture started with the phrase “I usually cover this much information in a whole semester…” Needless to say, it was a jam-packed course.

Now that I’ve completed this Basic Course and passed my final, I will be required to put in forty hours of horticulture-related community service before January 2002 to fully claim the title Master Gardener. After that, to remain an active member, and be eligible to attend advanced courses, I must do twenty volunteer hours a year, and pay $10 in dues. Nancy Hulett, the state Program Coordinator, says she expects about seventy percent of this year’s students to remain active through next year. She is in the process ofrecording how many stay on longer than that, but doesn’t currently have figures. The program is working hard at developing regional chapters, to keep people connected after they finish the training. There is also an extensive web site (some of which is accessible to the general public). She believes communication is key in getting people involved.

One of the most important aspects of the Master Gardener program is the volunteer hours. In order to qualify towards the required number of hours, the time must meet the following criteria: time must be volunteered, with no payment for services; it must educate people about horticultural topics; and it has to promote the Master Gardeners. After those stipulations are met, the field is wide open.

Many people work with 4-H clubs, or do programs with schools or public libraries. Others have taken on specific community projects. For example, the Waterbury Rotary Club, which maintains Rust Parker Park in Waterbury, is recruiting Master Gardeners to help with the plantings and maintenance. This alone doesn’t qualify, so in order to meet the educational requirement, plants in the park will be identified and labeled, as is done in botanical gardens.

A Master Gardener can’t just come over and landscape your lawn, but if you have questions on landscaping—or vegetable gardening, or pest control, or houseplants—you can call the Helpline at 800-639-2230. The Helpline is staffed by Master Gardener volunteers, and supported by UVM Extension resources.

Central Vermont Master Gardeners

Brenda Furber went through the Basic Course last year, and spent this year as a site coordinator for the Randolph class. She got involved, she says, because she was interested in gardening, but didn’t know how. “We built our new house, and I wanted a garden, and I didn’t know what to do!” She found out about the program through contacts at UVM, and has become an avid participant. Her favorite part, she says, is working with the 4-H Cloverleafs. These are the younger kids involved in 4-H (also a Cooperative Extension program).

Brenda attended to the big 4-H shindig at Berlin Elementary School on May 16th to assist with some of the workshops there, and will follow up by visiting kids’ gardens all summer. She and other Master Gardeners will visit 4-Hers’ homes to provide assistance and encouragement to these budding horticulturists. Kids can show off their successes, and ask about the plants that didn’t thrive.

Waterbury resident Marge Gulyas is another very active member. “I put in over 100 hours last year!” she tells me. She’s been a Master Gardener for about two years and is involved with many different projects. Being a tree and shrub enthusiast, one of her favorites is Stewardship of the Urban Landscape (SOUL). She attended a forty-hour course last spring and learned not only about actual planting of trees and the like in urban areas, but also grant writing, and how to use the media to your advantage. The SOUL class is offered every year, alternating sites between Burlington and Rutland, in order to reach people across the state.

Marge is also heavily involved other activities like the Burlington flower show and “A River Runs Through It”, the Waterbury/Duxbury garden club. She and Brenda both attend regular meetings of the Central Vermont Master Gardeners.

Eric Proudfoot is another Central Vermont chapter member. He says the program has helped him make some great friends, swap some great plants, and learn a whole lot about gardening. His job with the SRS Emergency Services Program has taught him that “educating the youth of the state is more important then ever.” Kids and teens are so at risk these days, and “one of the solutions is to get them connected to the planet.” He says the best way Master Gardeners can do this is working with the 4-H program.

4-H Event

The 4-H event on May 16th at the Berlin Elementary School was attended by many area youth, and I got a chance to speak to a few of them. I attended one of Brenda Furber’s workshops, where she helped the Cloverleafs plant beans and lettuce. They were then told how to properly water and care for their new plantings, to assure success. Dillon Austin, one of Brenda’s participants, says he came to the event because “I want to plant!” He says he helps his mom with her garden but is excited about having his own plants. When asked if he would consume his produce, he told me he’d eat the beans, but isn’t too fond of lettuce.

Joey Nailor is a “sort of” experienced gardener, and also likes to garden with Mom. He says he learned “how to plant seeds, and what type of bugs should be [in the garden] and what shouldn’t.” Joey eats some of what he cultivates, and is interested in learning how to grow prize winning produce in the future.

Jane Tucker, a Putnamville resident whose greenhouse provided the tomato plants all the kids got to take home, says she and her kids are involved because “It’s nice to see them finally be able to grow their own [food].” She adds, “We grow organically, and are trying to teach the next generation to carry on. From a very early age they could go yank a carrot out of the ground, rub the dirt off, and eat it, and I never worried about what they were getting.”

Her sons, Robert and Daniel, grow “monster” sunflowers, along with their vegetables, all of which they like to enter in produce competitions. Daniel, whose first real attempt at gardening was last year, was disappointed in the rotten summer we had. Robert has been involved for the past four years, and thinks gardening is really fun. He attended a worm composting workshop, where he learned, among other things, that worms really like coffee grounds.

Everyone, from beginner gardeners to Master Gardeners, seems to be planning and anticipating the coming summer. Now that the weather has warmed up, and all that snow is a distant memory, we can start dreaming about bountiful harvests. And if you need guidance and advice, just call on one of those freshly harvested Master Gardeners!

ISLAND POND GARDEN BLOOMS ON WEB (Burlington Free Press 5/27/01)
Erica Jacobson, Free Press Staff Writer (posted 5/30/01)

Forget Mary, Mary quite contrary; How does Jennifer Hanlon's garden grow? "Well, right now there's just the tulips," Hanlon said, "and the daffodils have just bloomed." Anyone with Internet access could have told you the same thing. Every 15 minutes during the day, a Web camera behind Hanlon's house takes a photo of her Northeast Kingdom garden and posts it to www.islandpond.com/webcam.htm.
Hanlon never expected her back yard to go global. A friend hooked up the camera in February on a whim. Back then, snowmobilers loved to check the site because they could gauge the quality of area trails by the amount of snow piled on Hanlon's picnic table. As she waited for winter to end, Hanlon installed a few pink flamingos in the snow. They flew away just in time for a few spinning plastic flowers to sprout. Now that actual plants are blooming, she's moved most of the kitsch aside to make way for the view of her evolving flower garden. "This is all kind of a work in progress," Hanlon said. "It's like a live flower show; every day it just changes."
Under the nickname "Flora," Hanlon also runs several gardening discussion groups where she posts digital photos of everything from trillium to moose prints found in and around her garden. She shunned planting vegetables in favor of more colorful flowers, but she's had little feedback. "There's not many people who reply," she said. "The ones who do are from out of state, and they want to see what's going on in Vermont."
Hanlon doesn't have the only grow show around, though. Last year, the trade newspaper Iowa Farmer Today Online put a corn cam into a field. She does, however, have a jump on this year's growing season, even at her Zone 3 home. While yellow flowers can be seen in Hanlon's backyard, heavy rains have prevented the Iowa farmer from planting his field. Still, she's not so sure she wants her site to be subjected to the same traffic as the corn cam's average 20,000 daily viewers. "Just like in your garden, a few zucchini are a good thing," Hanlon said. "Too many zucchini are not such a good thing."
Still, the stay-at-home mom expects a little garden cam excitement featuring her 2 1/2 -year-old daughter, the family's Australian shepherd and whatever wildlife happens to wander through. She's already had to make an unexpected revision to the site after a less-than-flattering shot of her working in the garden almost spent the entire night on the site. "I just uploaded darkness instead," Hanlon said. "It was kind of funny. I just laughed about it."

PLANT A ROW THIS SPRING (Outreach Outlook May 2001, Volume 18, Number 4 http://ctr.uvm.edu/oo.)
Doug Lantagne, Associate Director (posted 5/8/01)

I have been serving on a small committee over the last few months with Monika Baege, 4-H/Youth and Family Development Specialist; Linda Berlin, Nutrition Specialist; Pauline Pare, of the Natural Resources Conservation Service; and Nancy Hulett, Home Horticulture and Master Gardener Program Coordinator, to discuss goals and directions for building a signature program in Vermont around gardening for youth.
Developing a sense of purpose and direction as an individual is often tied to accomplishing something for which you feel personal satisfaction. Gardening is a natural vehicle for educating youths and adults and, as with most life skills learned in one setting, they will have an impact beyond the garden. Some parents in the Washington County gardening program have noted that their child's participation in the gardening program increased their environmental awareness and appreciation for both the art of agriculture and the source of their food. Volunteers have also commented that youth gardeners appear to learn and/or improve such marketable skills as planning, goal setting, and self-motivation.
On the personal health and community health sides of the ledger, the youths themselves tend to eat more vegetables, have a keener sense of nutrition, and contribute to the community with the donation of flowers and vegetables to senior centers and local food shelves. Which brings me to the title: "Plant a row this spring."
The Garden Writers Association of America launched a public service campaign in 1995. Their goal was to increase the amount of food available to the estimated 35 million people (children, women, and men) that go hungry each day in the United States. Their approach is for each of us with a garden to "Plant a Row" for donation to a local food bank.
In Vermont, the State Office of Economic Opportunity has contacted each of the local food shelves, soup kitchens, and distributors of food to meet people's needs to learn what vegetables they would accept and use. Thanks to University of Vermont Extension Master Gardener Program, that list is being added to their Web page so that anyone in the state can find a local user of their garden produce. The Web address is: http://pss.uvm.edu/mg/mg/.
After you find out who locally will be happy to receive your produce, give them a call and talk with the local coordinator so they know you are out there. Also ask them what their preferred vegetable needs would be within the local community. Then plant a row this spring.
As I try a garden for the first time at our new house this summer, I will see what my green thumbs can do with rocky, wet, heavy soil! So please consider this idea for your personal garden, and pass on the idea to your 4-H members' gardens and within your neighborhood: Plant a row this spring!

LAKE-FRIENDLY GARDENING AWARENESS PROMOTED
(Outreach Outlook May 2001, Volume 18, Number 4 http://ctr.uvm.edu/oo.)
Jurij Homziak, Watershed Management Specialist (posted 5/8/01)

From the blue expanses of Lake Champlain to the quiet waters of the many smaller lakes and ponds, lake waters are the heart of our region. To help protect these waters, UVM Extension's Master Gardener program, with Lake Champlain Sea Grant support, is making sure local residents are aware of lake-friendly gardening. Lake-friendly gardening promotes the following landscaping principles:
* Use low input.
* Water efficiently.
* Fertilize appropriately.
* Control erosion.
* Manage pests and diseases responsibly.
* Recycle yard and household wastes.
* Reduce nonpoint source pollution.
* Attract birds and provide for wildlife.
* Protect the watershed.
This outreach education effort is for residents and others involved in planning, designing, installing, and maintaining private and public landscapes. The core of the program is a series of 12 information bulletins, with tips and how-to advice on low-impact gardening, lawn care, and landscaping for the homeowner. These bulletins are available for free on the Web at http://ctr.uvm.edu/ctr/elecpubs.htm, or they can be purchased from the Extension Publications Office. (Contact Sheri Bissonnette, Publications Distribution Officer at: 656-0298; e-mail: sheri.bissonnette@uvm.edu.)
What began as a local initiative on the west coast years ago is now a very successful nationwide effort supported by state Extension and coastal Sea Grant programs. It first appeared in the Lake Champlain region a few years ago, as an Essex County, N.Y. reprint of a New York Sea Grant Great Lakes program publication. Lake Champlain Sea Grant enlisted UVM Extension Master Gardener program to review and revise the information to adapt it to the needs of gardeners, homeowners, and other residents in the Lake Champlain basin and Vermont.
Since lake-friendly gardening made its debut at the Burlington Flower Show in early March, the UVM Master Gardeners have been active in getting the word out to homeowners, gardeners, residential property managers, and others, such as neighborhood planning associations and volunteer organizations. Making entire neighborhoods aware of lake-friendly activities, such as low-input lawn care, is important to translate awareness into action. Sea Grant, UVM Extension Specialists and the Master Gardener program are working with the Burlington Public Works and Burlington School District staff to have a low-input lawncare demonstration underway this spring on the grounds of the Champlain Elementary School on Pine Street in Burlington.
In addition to increasing awareness about pollution prevention and water quality protection, the Lake Friendly Gardening program also raises awareness of important related issues such as backyard solid waste, soil erosion, and plant and wildlife conservation. Not only does the education program help homeowners protect lake resources, it also assists Vermont and Basin municipalities in meeting the requirements of the U.S. EPA stormwater rules to reduce nonpoint source pollution from urban runoff and discharges. By getting residents to become aware and involved in maintaining good water quality, we help to preserve the quality of life and promote sustainable development of the lake basins in our region.

A PASSION FOR PEONIES (submitted to the Bennington Banner)
Linda McLenithan, Master Gardener Volunteer, UVM Extension (posted 4/30/01)

After attending a recent lecture and slideshow on peonies by Bill Countryman of Countryman Peony Farm in Northfield, VT sponsored by the Arlington Garden Club, I'm convinced I don't have nearly enough of these luscious flowers in my garden. These are the plants grandmothers had in their cottage gardens and there is something old-fashioned looking about them. There are well over a thousand varieties to choose from, enough to satisfy anyone s desire for spectacular blooms in the garden. They range in color from the purest white, all shades of pink, to a deep red, almost purple. They come in single, semi-double, double, anemone, Japanese and Itoh Hybrid varieties.
In 1988 Donald Hollingsworth introduced the first yellow peony named Garden Treasure. The Garden Treasure is a strong yellow color not usually found in herbaceous peonies. By crossing a yellow tree peony with an herbaceous variety, Hollingsworth produced a plant with large yellow flowers. Garden Treasure is perfectly hardy in Vermont due to its dying to the ground (herbaceous) in the fall which protects it from harsh winter weather. Tree and herbaceous crosses are called Itoh hybrids to honor the Japanese breeder, Toichi Itoh, who in the late 1940's was the first to succeed in making the cross. Few breeders have been able to do this. As a result, only a few Itoh hybrids have been developed (read expensive!).
Myron Bigger, another peony grower, has been instrumental in picking out superior flowering peonies with a strong stem. If you want a strong-stemmed variety that doesn t need to be staked, look for the Bigger name. If your peonies are of the variety that are weak stemmed, especially noticeable after a heavy rain, stake them using the round support rings or even tomato cages.
Peonies prefer a well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. They don't do well in poorly drained soil. Plants will do best in full sunlight, but will stand a moderate amount of shade. Peonies can be planted any time in the fall before the ground freezes. Peonies planted in spring, unless pot grown, sometimes fail because the root development does not keep pace with the growth. Dig a big enough hole to accommodate the root system. In Vermont, plant with the eyes 2 inches below the soil surface with eyes facing upwards. Mulch the first winter to prevent frost heave, after the first year no mulch is necessary.
Peonies are rarely bothered by insects and although their bloom time is usually over by June-July, the foliage remains attractive throughout the growing season. The ants that you see on peonies are attracted to the sweet, sticky substance that peonies secrete.
Hmm, no mulching (after first year), no fertilization necessary, no insects, doesn t need dividing unless you want more plants, spectacular flowers, what more could you want from these workhorses of the spring/summer garden?
In the single variety try the strong stemmed Topeka Garnet (red), Japanese, the Gold Standard (white), Topeka Statue, (pale pink to white). In the semi-double try the Miss America, a spectacular white two- time gold medal winner. For a double try Mrs. James Kelway, considered by some as the best white double available.
So whether you are just starting your garden or are looking for additional flowering plants, consider adding peonies to your landscape for low-maintenance beauty.

THE FRENCH FLOWERS OF CANADA!
Debra Douse MG 2001 (posted 4/30/01)

Feel like you've done it all in Vermont, garden-wise? Seen every perennial and shrub? Then consider touring the gardens of Quebec. It's just over the border, great for a day trip or even a long weekend. And need I say it's great value for the money due to the exchange rate. Before you dismiss the idea as unproductive, consider that many areas of Quebec are zone 4 or less, so you'll get lots of new ideas for plants suitable for our regions here in Vermont. Montreal is a bi-lingual city in the heart of Quebec, which has the largest French speaking population in North America, but flowers have a language all their own.
If you only have one day, the Montreal Botanical Garden is a must. Though this cosmopolitan island has hundreds of small parks and gardens, this is the jewel in the city's crown. Located on Sherbrook St. East, in the shadow of the Olympic Stadium, it shines brightly as an inspiration to gardeners and non-gardeners alike.
This city oasis consists of 30 gardens, including a beautiful Chinese Pavillion with fine examples of bonzai and penjing; medicinal and herbal gardens; and a lovely Japanese garden-always a favorite spot for wedding photographs. At the far end of the garden, 10 exhibition greenhouses are the starting ground for seedlings raised to fill the myriads of medians and outdoor spaces all over the city. Montreal is a riot of color from spring through fall: imagine pink & green scrambling over white on the face of blue and yellow! (All no doubt in retaliation for the gray winters!)
June sees hundreds of roses at their best, and the water garden is fabulous all summer long, showcasing iris, peonies and daylilies, and is a favorite with kids who love interacting with the waterfowl inhabiting this area. If all the walking is too much for you, there's a free hop on/hop off tram available. There truly is something for everyone here. Check their website for more information, including their Calendar of Blooms!: ville.montreal.qc.ca/jardin.
Just north of Montreal, the city of Laval, as the horticultural capital of Quebec, produces 35% of the hothouse flowers in Quebec, in 170 greenhouses. The geographic region is divided into 3 areas: the "route of flowers", the "green route" and the "avenue of produce". Quebec tourist information centers have brochures describing these areas and the farms and greenhouses open to visitors, of which there are over 240. Plan to spend some time exploring!
East of Montreal, near Drummondville, a very different experience awaits you at Jardins Lumieres de L'Avenier (Lighted gardens of Avenir). This beautiful site on the banks of the St. Francis river showcases sculptures in a garden setting which come to life with specialized lighting. You'll come away with a whole new perspective on gardening for night enjoyment. Info at 877-394-3350.
Last, but certainly not least, there's Domaine Cataraqui, the only historical garden in the Quebec City area. It is a lovely Victorian-era garden created over the past 150 years, in a peaceful setting on the St. Lawrence river. Be sure to visit the lovely villa while you are there. Info: 418-681-3010.
This is just a small sampling of the garden delights that await you just north of the border. So pack your camera and notebook and venture into a whole new garden world. You'll find inspiration for your own garden, and rub elbows with other gardeners who are happy to share their knowledge with you, in any language!

GARDENING TIPS
From Nancy Willard, Southeast Region Master Gardener (posted 2/13/01)

SUSTAINABLE LANDSCAPE DESIGN -Part 3 (Parts 1&2 below)
Jennifer Johnson MG (posted 2/22/01)

I've admired magazine photographs of homes framed by shrubs and trees and set among prolific perennial flowerbeds flowing through the property. In real life, however, I see homes sticking up like stray corn stalks in a bean field with shrubs randomly popping up like molehills. Ever wonder how to blend your home into its environment and create flowerbeds that don't look, well, just stuck somewhere in the middle of the yard? Diana Alfuth's (Horticulture Educator, University of Wisconsin Extension, Pierce, Polk, and St. Croix Counties) Landscape Design class identified the key to creating a unified design. Here's how:
List all of the functions, or spaces, the landscape needs to provide based on the information gained during the Interview; an extensive questioning of the users, maintainers, and owners of the site, and the Site Analysis; a combination of draft sketches, plans, and notes that point out the positive and negative characteristics of the site. Functions could include a variety of items like play space for children, foundation plantings, firewood storage, privacy screens, and enhanced family room views.
The list and the Base Plan, which is a scale drawing from a bird's eye view of everything that won't change, will be used in the next step - drawing Bubble Diagrams. (I discussed the Interview, Site Analysis, and Base Plan extensively in article 2 of the Sustainable Landscape Design series.) Drawn on the Base Plan, Bubble Diagrams are simple egg shapes that define and locate spaces on the landscape by function. For example, a bubble alongside the home could indicate space for foot traffic to the backyard, and one near the patio, a privacy screen. The spaces they identify are specific, but not the "bubble" itself. Just draw and label the bubbles where the spaces may be located. Try different combinations on separate copies of the Base Plan to force thinking in different ways, creating unique combinations, and identify preferences. The purpose at this stage is to identify, not define spaces. So the location, not the shape, is important. The Bubble Diagram allows you to creatively explore incorporating all of the desired functions of the landscape into the design. Ten to 15 Bubble Diagrams should clearly identify preferred locations.
The next step is to modify the bubbles to create a Draft Design, where features have a specific form and function. First, draw in the hard features like a stoop, deck, driveway, and walkway if they are not included in the Base Plan. Think functionality: size the stoop for room to open the door without falling off the step, locate the driveway and walkway to allow easy access from the car to the walk, and proportion the deck to allow room for furniture and a walkway. Then, draw in the largest feature or space, which is usually the turf. The shape of this space defines the shape of the smaller ones. This is where I balked. Start with grass to design flowerbeds? I had always thought of the grass as what was left over after one had created the gardens. But, on reflection, this makes sense. For visual and functional effectiveness, a landscape needs a balance between fine and heavy textures. Grass is the finest texture so there must be proportionately more. If the largest space looks good, the rest will, too.
Concept Lines, the lines on paper and the borders between features, define the spaces and identify where to locate items for the professional flowing appearance I've admired. They can be imaginary, like where shade meets sun; real, like the border between the foundation plantings and turf; or within an area, like a grouping of shrubs next to annuals. The key to attractive, natural Concept Lines is to create a swoosh effect: big, bold, smoothly sweeping curves. Lazy, meandering lines, which aren't quite straight but don't have a defined curve, simply look unplanned. Think straight lines or bold curves and nothing in between. French curves and landscape templates, found at art and office supply stores, help create these smooth curves.
Start by reshaping the largest feature into swooshing Concept Lines, which also shapes at least one side of the abutting smaller spaces. Then, define the other features you've included in the Bubble Diagram. I found I needed to keep massaging the bubbles to make the elements work together.
The Concept Lines make the difference between design and decoration since they determine where certain items will be located. For established landscapes, work concept lines into established features like trees. (The eye will look past mature tree trunks. Deciduous tree trunks and evergreen branches fall along the Concept Lines.) Eschew the traditional ring of shrubs around the foundation and create bold curves around the building corners to soften the vertical lines and lead the eye through the landscape. Curve the Concept Lines to include the sharp corners of a deck or patio and integrate it into the landscape. Make the edges of an island garden bed replicate nearby Concept Lines so that they become part of the design. The features of the landscape actually become the Concept Lines.
Translated from paper to the grounds, the flowing, curving shape of the features provides the natural style I've admired. In the next, and last, article of this series, I'll discuss garden bed design and actual plant selection to make the design come to life.

SUSTAINABLE LANDSCAPE DESIGN -Part 2 (Part 1 below)
Jennifer Johnson MG (posted 2/13/01)

I've tried to create beautiful landscapes. After ogling photographs in magazines like Fine Gardening and reading books with titles including the words 'garden design,' I knew it could be done. I also knew that I should create the design on paper first. But I'd get stuck somewhere between my fantasy of flowers and a stack of graph paper, pencils, and a big pink eraser. Diana Alfuth's Landscape Design class closed that gap for me the second week. First she taught the five interrelated principles needed to create a design that looks good new and matures into beauty. I wrote about these principles in the last newsletter issue. Then, we learned the step-by-step process that really helped me identify what needs to be done to incorporate these principles, put pencil to paper, and create a completed landscape design.
The first step is to conduct a Site Survey, which is a fancy way of saying you need to learn any and everything about the property by viewing the site and asking a lot of questions. Really studying the area helps you identify what works and what doesn't. Look for signs of problems like erosion, standing water, weedy edging, bad views, wear spots in the lawn, and poor plant growth to identify what's needed to make it more sustainable using the five principles: functional, maintainable, environmentally sound, cost effective and visually pleasing.
A home design can be as simple as a self-evaluation of the landscape. For public and commercial properties, include interviews with public officials, users, engineers, and maintenance personnel, too. Ask questions about the types of buildings, structures, functions (how will the space be used?), topographic features (any large slopes? water features?), soil (compacted? acidic?), light conditions (full shade? sunny?), utilities, service areas (need a dog kennel? wood storage?), plant preferences and design features to include (perennial garden? prairie restoration?). As you can see from this partial list, there's a wide variety of information you can use. I'll include a source for interview questions at the end of this series.
The information from the Site Survey is then incorporated into a Site Analysis, which combines draft sketches, plans, and notes to point out the important site characteristics, both positive features and problem areas, that impact the landscape. The key to minimizing the impact of problem areas is to identify and work with them. For example, a struggling plant may be babied with extra inputs like fertilizers, labor, and water, only to be lost and replaced anyway. If the Site Analysis had identified the area as having poor drainage, then a plant that enjoys 'wet feet' could have been chosen and thrived in the location.
The beauty of the information-gathering phase is that it is the beginning of nailing down a design. the information might seem unrelated at first, but it's critical to incorporating sustainability into the landscape. For example, if I determine I want a certain part of the landscape to block an unsightly view and it happens to have acidic soil and mostly shade, I have already narrowed down the design elements that will work. My 'fantasy of flowers' is starting to find space on my graph paper.
With a completed Site Analysis, it's time to really put pencil to paper and draw a Base Plan, which is a bird's eye view of everything that won't change, like buildings, driveways, sidewalks, trees, and plants. It dictates the accuracy and sustainability of the completed design, since what is on paper translates to the grounds. If the Base Plan is not to scale, your whole design will be off when you start digging, rearranging, and planting. Wouldn't it be a shame to install that beautiful garden bed on your neighbor's property? Or to run out of room with half a dozen shrubs left? It is usually drawn on graph paper with a scale of 1/8 inch equal to one foot. You'll find those little blue boxes on the graph paper conveniently 1/8 of an inch square. A ruler, compass, a landscape template with curves and circles (found at art and office supply stores), pencil, and eraser are helpful supplies.
You can draw the features using the triangulation method, which measures the distance to an object from two different directions for accuracy. Start by measuring the house (or building) all the way around. Draw that into the middle of a sheet of paper. Then choose another permanent feature you wish to include, for example a tree on the East side of the house. Measure from the Northeast corner of the house to the tree. Translate that distance to the paper and draw a line with a ruler, or arc with a compass. Then measure from the Southeast corner of the house to the same tree. Again, translate that distance to your paper and draw another line or arc. Where the two lines or arcs intersect is where the tree should be located. Create a circle with the diameter representing the mature size of the tree around the point of intersection. Continue until all of the permanent features have been drawn. the property line should be the last thing to draw. Simply measure from different spots on the walls of the house to the property line. Do as many of these measurements as you can and then 'connect the dots' to identify the property line on paper.
When the Base Plan is finished, make a bunch of copies because this is where is really gets fun. Next, I'll share how we used all of this information to draft a complete landscape design on our Base Plan.

SUSTAINABLE LANDSCAPE DESIGN -Part 1
Jennifer Johnson MG

Moving frequently over the last ten years, I've inherited overgrown perennial beds breeding plant pathology and my discontent. I've tamed the weed-filled perennial beds back into an organized design by plugging the newly divided plants wherever I found space. Then we'd move again and I wouldn't have to live with the mistakes that grew with time. I knew I should create a master landscape design and then complete each bed as energy and money allow. But where do you start? And who has time to plan? I was too busy gardening! After taking Diana Alfuth's intensive landscape design class, I've reformed. Offered to Master Gardeners and Master Gardeners-in-Training, she taught a method of design called Sustainable Landscape Design which is suitable for public design projects which we as Master Gardeners may become involved such as parks, nursing homes and fairgrounds as well as residential home landscapes. Sustainable Landscape Design basically is an informal style incorporating five interrelated principles with the goal of a design that looks good new and matures into beauty while reducing the need for maintenance. Sustainability is built into the design throughout the process. A Sustainable Landscape Design must be functional, maintainable, environmentally sound, cost effective and visually pleasing - in that order. Most folks begin by focusing on cost and aesthetics, if they plan the landscape at all. Yet, considering the first three issues, helps to create a design fulfilling the final two. Functional refers to any purpose of the landscape besides aesthetics. Will the space be used to play ball? Place the outdoor furniture? Meditate? Store firewood? The function varies tremendously with the users and type of site. Maintainable means reducing but not eliminating the need for maintenance. A maintenance level appropriate for the time and expertise of the caretakers and the type of equipment available should be considered. This is particularly important in public spaces where the consistency and quality of care is uncertain. Sizing paths to accommodate lawnmower and snow removal equipment, placing signs within a garden bed to eliminate trimming and mulching to reduce weeds are all examples of easing maintenance in the Landscape. Environmentally sound decisions require plant selection based on disease resistance and site conditions, like light, soil and water. Stressed plants are susceptible to disease and insects and may require pesticides, fertilizers and water. Minimizing the need for these inputs saves labor, money and stress to the environment while helping to preserve plant health and beauty. Once the function, maintainability and environmental soundness of a design have been considered, the issues of cost-effectiveness and aesthetics are addressed. A cost-effective landscape incorporates the other factors but does not dictate them. It is relative to the owner's needs during design and installation as well as when the plants mature. A visually pleasing landscape incorporates elements of good design that look good when planted and continue to look good over time. This is much more easily accomplished when all of the elements of a sustainable landscape design are considered. One doesn't need to be an artist or have a design background to make a wonderful design. Next month, I'll review the step-by-step process we learned to include these elements in creating a draft design.

VERMONT NATURE Lichens: Messengers From the Plant World
Linda Garrett, Vermont Institute of Natural Science

Now that the leaves are falling and the branches are becoming bare, trees are flaunting their trunks. Colorful leaves, arching
branches, reaching roots: all are often admired, but rarely the mundane tree trunk. Except, perhaps, at this time of year, when they sport a green,
multi-hued, richly textured cloak of lichens. Lichens (pronounced "lye-kins") are found not only on tree trunks, but also on bare rocks, fence posts, exterior barn walls, and other barren surfaces. Ceaseless winds, extreme cold, feet of snow and ice--lichens can withstand the most severe conditions. Indeed, lichens are pioneer plants, somehow eking out a living on seemingly uninhabitable places and other micro-habitats, far before any other plant is able to establish itself there. How do lichens do it? Probably the most important secret to the remarkable success of lichens is their unique structure. In fact, lichens are comprised of not one, but two plants--a fungus and an alga- supporting each other in a mutually beneficial, or "symbiotic," manner. The fungus provides physical support, moisture, and minerals for the lichen. But, without chlorophyll, the fungus is unable to manufacture its own food and, so, on a bare rock, would wither and die without its partner, alga. For its part, the alga, thanks to an abundant supply of chlorophyll, easily makes food for both itself and the fungus. Alga normally grows on water surfaces; without its fungus partner, it would be unable to survive in the harsh, dry environments where lichens thrive. Botanists classify lichens, of which there are about 10,000 species, intothree categories. "Crustose" lichens cling to the rock or other surface, almost like a crust. "Foliose" lichens are leafier and reach up slightly. Finally, "fruticose" lichens are more three-dimensional, with stalks and branches. In this area, three of our most common lichens- "reindeer moss," "British soldiers," and "pixie cups"--are examples of the fruticose lichen type. To an ecologist, one of the most extraordinary qualities of lichens is their ability to detect air pollution. Indeed, lichens are often considered reliable air quality indicators. Unlike other plants, which absorb water and nutrients through their soil bound roots, lichens absorb water directly from the rain or dew. Thus, if the air carries pollutants, like sulphur dioxide from cities, the lichens receive those pollutants directly, without filtering through soil. One exceptionally obvious example of the susceptibility of lichens to airborne pollutants is described by Edward Duensing and A.B. Millmoss in their book, Backyard and Beyond. In Lapland, a remote land above the Arctic Circle, dangerous concentrations of radiation are found in the bodies of Laplanders, higher than in any other people. Why? Years ago, when the first atomic bombs were tested about the Pacific Ocean nearly 10,000 miles away, the prevailing air currents carried the radiation to remote Lapland. There, the abundant reindeer lichen, as any lichen would, directly absorbed the airborne radiation. In turn, the native reindeer, as always, consumed great quantities of the lichen, their principal food. Finally, the Lapland people, whose diet is predominantly reindeer meat, ingested the radiation-tainted meat. At each step along the food chain, the radiation concentrations multiplied, until in the body of a Laplander, the radiation concentration was 100 times what had been absorbed by a single lichen plant. Note: The Vermont Institute of Natural Science has three locations in Woodstock, Montpelier, and Manchester, Vermont. For information call (802) 457-2779 for programs in Woodstock and Manchester and (802) 229-6206 for Montpelier events. You can also visit www.vinsweb.org http://www.vinsweb.org/

VERMONT NATURE Fern Fanfare
Diana Lawrence Mg Intern Vermont Institute of Natural Science

(June 9, 2000) My sister, who lives in Toronto, came to visit us last month. Taking a tour of our backyard, she exclaimed over the multitude of ferns framing our property, their gorgeous green fronds swaying romantically in the breeze. "I think I just paid $15 to put two of those in my garden," she muttered enviously. In Vermont we are truly blessed with a fanfare of ferns. Ferns are an ancient family of plants and have been thriving for millions of years. The number of fern species in existence is estimated at between 9,000 and 15,000, for new species are still being discovered in unexplored tropical areas and many groups are poorly studied. Ferns thrive in a wide range of habitats around the globe. In Costa Rica alone, there are more than 900 species. Early fern fossils predate the beginning of the Mesozoic era, 360 million years ago. They are older than land animals and far older than the dinosaurs, and were thriving on Earth for 200 million years before flowering plants evolved. During the Carboniferous Period, (the age of ferns) they were the dominant form of vegetation. Their life cycle, dependent upon spores for dispersal, long preceded the seed-plant life cycle. During this era some fern-like groups actually evolved seeds (the seed ferns), which gave rise to the flowering plants we see today. Ferns love moist environments and thrive under Vermont's sheltering forest canopies and along creeks and streams. They belong to the vascular plant division Filicophyta, having leaves (fronds) with well-developed internal vein structures that promote the flow of water and nutrients. The young leaves normally unroll from a tight fiddlehead or crosier. Unlike other vascular plants (flowering plants and conifers) that reproduce from seed, ferns do it differently. They typically reproduce from spores and an intermediate plant stage called a gametophyte. Tucked under the fronds of most ferns is the sporangia or spore sack, which produces dust-like spores. They can be black, brown, reddish, yellow or even green but they are all very tiny. Spores are generally formed in groups of four and contain oil droplets and sometimes chlorophyll, in addition to their nucleus. Ferns disperse millions even billions of spores during their lifetime but these seldom land in environments with adequate light and moisture. When they do, the spores start to grow by cell division, developing into little green heart-shaped plants called gametophytes. The gametophyte is an independent plant with its own simple "root" system. It grows male organs and female organs on its underside. The male organs (antheridium) produce spermatazoids that swim through available moisture, such as a droplet of water, to the egg produced by the female organs (archegonium). The fertilized egg then begins to grow the sporophyte, which is the plant we know as a fern. Most ferns are found in the tropics where tree ferns--with their aboveground stems (rhizomes)-- may grow as high as 80 feet. Fronds vary greatly in size from 12 feet to 2 millimeters in length. Some ferns are vines; others float on the surface of ponds. Here in Vermont, common ferns include the Christmas fern (an evergreen fern), the marginal wood-fern, the beautiful lime loving maidenhair fern, the hay-scented fern (common in sunny fields), the cinnamon fern, the sensitive fern (susceptible to late frosts) and the ostrich fern, which is the source of edible fiddleheads.

BENEFITS OF BLACK AND CLEAR PLASTIC
Bill Guinness MG

Let's take black plastic first.Black plastic will heat up the soil to a certain degree. Remember black will reflect the sun somewhat. Black plastic will discourage weed growth and will eventually kill all plants that try to grow beneath it. Black plastic will also inhibit some soil borne insects. This type of plastic is good on mounded beds, tomatoes, peppers and flowers. It also retains moisture by keeping the soil shaded. Experiment in your own garden. Mulch on top of black plastic is good. The plastic should be replaced after a few years, as the plastic will deteriorate over a period of time.
Now let's take clear plastic. Clear plastic is not as long lasting as black plastic. It will deteriorate in one or two years. If you want to really warm up your soil clear plastic is the plastic to use. Clear plastic can be used to "solarize" your soil. This practice is seldom used because it needs about three weeks to be effective. It kills weeds, soil borne diseases and everything up to five inches deep. I am not going to get into how it is done. Weeds will grow under clear plastic. It is not as good at keeping moisture in the ground as black plastic.
Summary
1. Black plastic will heat up the soil.
2. Black plastic will kill weeds underneath.
3. Black plastic retains more moisture than clear plastic.
4. Clear plastic really warms up the soil especially in early spring.
5. Weeds will grow under clear plastic.
6. Clear plastic will not retain moisture. It is more apt to dry out the soil.
So you see, black and clear plastic each have a use in the garden. It is up to you to use them for your own purpose.

YOUR GARDENING EXPERIENCES & SOME THOUGHTS FROM MJ…
M. J. Sagi MG

Well the time is here again for Rutland to put out the Newsletter. I have been given a list of subjects MGs have suggested in the survey in the last newsletter and at the recent newsletter meeting, which might be contained in future Master Gardener Newsletters. You know, each one of us Master Gardeners specializes in something and that is why I joined the group. Because though I can read thousands of wordy published articles until I am blue in the face, somehow hearing information from someone just like me makes it easier to absorb and learn. By this I mean most of my gardening "training" has come from people trading information informally. And that is the key, I think - regular people who share and teach their love of gardening. My old friend Lorraine Guinness wasn't a trained horticulturist, but she knew more about perennials and vegetables than anyone I have ever met. And she started me slowly, sharing just a few plants, being careful not to overwhelm me. I remember she told me never to worry. The garden would take care of itself - that I would be rewarded with wonderful things in the spring, (a season of hope and renewal) if I would just get the courage up to begin. "Anybody", she said, "can become a gardener". Her garden spirit was infectious! She was a true Master Gardener. Her husband, Bill Guinness MG writes articles for the newsletter now, sharing years of his gardening expertise. You don't have to be a published author to pass along say….your knowledge of rose gardens to us. Your information is just the kind we are looking for. And if you want, we can take your information and write an article for you. MGs want to know about such things as moss cultivation, successes and failures and the reasons why, current problems and solutions, shade gardening, organic practices, tree ID and the list goes on…….. How about it?????? We need to hear from you. Tell us about what works for you. Tell us about your gardens. Book reviews? Specialty gardens? Wildlife damage control? Unusual plants? High wind problems? Tell us how you solved your planting problems. Disease resistant varieties of plants? Perennial care through 12 months?…………….send us an article! We're waiting……….. And from all of us on the Rutland Newsletter Team, “ Have a wonderful Holiday Season!!!”

HARVEST YOUR HERBS FOR THE HOLIDAYS AND BEYOND…
MJ Sagi MG, interviews Ellen Pfadt.

A couple of months ago, I went to a talk on herbs by Ellen Pfadt from "Thyme in Pittsford". She is an expert on herbs and their uses and runs a thriving business out of her home. After hearing her talk, I went straight home and started an herb garden!!!!! I asked if she would give me some hints on herbs for the holidays and here's her reply Use your herbs for a holiday wreath, and bring it inside. Wonderful scents will see you through the season. Thyme is the symbol of bravery she says and what harried housewife doesn't need bravery to get through the holiday season! Sage, blue white and pineapple also can be incorporated into the wreath along with statice and tansy. Balsam holds its needles best . Use lavender, mistletoe, wheat holly and evergreen, cedar cones and foliage. Boxwood stands for stoicism and works nicely. Dried hot peppers add color and Ellen says “if you are feeling a bit low chew on some and that will get your circulation going!!!” Rosemary is a love to be remembered, but remember to bring her in the house for the winter. She will take temps down to freezing but why put her through it? Reverse hardening off for herbs you winter inside. Put into a pot and leave outside for a few days and then place in a sunny window. Keep rosemary moist because she is a native of the Mediterranean. She doesn't like wet feet or dry feet. A wet Rosemary is a dead Rosemary. Put pebbles in a dish under the pot to keep humidity up. A cool room is great. Bring in your lemon verbena too, since it doesn't like the cold either. When you are through with your Christmas tree, cut boughs and place them over your lavender plants. This prevents "heaving" and since lavender is shallow rooted, it will heave out of the ground if not covered. Here is an excellent recipe for Herb Jelly to give as gifts for the holidays. Herb jellies may be made of one or a combination of herbs or in combination with apple jelly. Try both ways. Fresh herbs are preferred but dried ones may be used. Use half as much dried herbs as the fresh herb recipe calls for. Try any of these herbs: basil, lemon verbena, marjoram, mint, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon or thyme.

Herbal Jelly
1 Cup fresh herbs (leaves and stems) packed
2 1/2 Cups boiling water
4 1/2 Cups sugar
1/4 Cup lemon juice or vinegar
3 oz. Liquid pectin
Make an infusion by steeping herbs in boiling water for 20 minutes. Strain out herbs and discard. Add sugar and lemon juice to herb-flavored liquid. Heat until sugar dissolves. Bring mixture to boil and add pectin. Boil for one minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and skim. Place a few fresh herb leaves in each jelly glass. Pour and seal. Makes four 8 oz. glasses.

And finally, the holiday season can be a stressful time. Here is Ellen's recipe for Herbal Tea. Take time out to relax and have a cup. First, harvest your herbs before the frost. Put into a plastic bag, tie shut and put in a cool place. They will keep nicely for weeks. No need to dry or freeze.

Herbal Teas
Harvest about a cup of fresh leaves. Rinse in cold water and shake dry. Place in teapot. Pour boiling water over fresh leaves. Cover teapot with a cozy or kitchen towel and allow to steep for 10 minutes to allow the flavor and nutrients of the herbs to be released. Pour tea and enjoy. Adjust amount of herb to suit your personal taste. ENJOY!

Last modified: April 08, 2002

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