Winter
News
Article
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GARDENING QUESTIONS
YOU MAY ASK IN JANUARY
Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor
University of Vermont
The North Country Garden Calendar, published jointly by Cooperative
Extension in Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont, has as its theme for
2005 common garden questions each month. Questions we get, and
that you may ask, this month concern the most common winter houseplant
problem, how to know what plants will grow in your area, and whether
woodashes can be spread on gardens.
With so many exciting new plants and seeds, I find gardeners often
don't know where to begin their planning, or how to narrow their search
to what may grow in their area. A good place is the plant
hardiness zones, developed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, shown
in their well-known and often seen map. Find your location on
this map, and identify your zone. These zones refer to "average
annual minimum winter temperatures", and so are only guides but good
places to begin.
Keep in mind local variations in climate, called microclimates, can
modify these zones. Such variations are caused by altitude,
topography (hills and valleys), proximity to bodies of water, or
nearness to buildings for instance. Your local master gardeners,
or trained garden store professionals, can help you sort out such
variations and their effects.
Plants in catalogs and books will have a hardiness zone or range
listed. These may vary among sources, so it is best to consult
several and go with the average. If you want to be safe, stick
with the warmest zone listed for a plant.
The lower the zone number, the colder it is. Plants have a good
chance in your zone, or colder ones (lower numbers). Depending on
those microclimates, they may even survive if rated for one zone warmer
(higher number). So if you are in zone 4, plants listed for this
and zone 3 should survive, and perhaps even some rated for zone
5.
Margaret Hagen, with the University of New Hampshire Cooperative
Extension, says that the most common indoor houseplant problem in
winter is overwatering. My own philosophy is, if in doubt, don't
water. Here is a case where less is better.
Suspect overwatering if your plants' lower (older) leaves are yellowing
and dropping. Overwatering prevents roots from getting oxygen for
proper growth. The result is root rot, and possibly death.
Rotted roots can't take up water, so plants wilt. Gardeners often
mistake this for dryness, so water more and make the problem even worse.
To avoid overwatering, you can purchase inexpensive water gauges at
complete garden stores. Or look at the soil surface. Dry
soil will often be lighter in color, and will not glisten. Check
the weight of the pots immediately after watering, and water only when
pots begin to feel light again.
Use a growing medium with good drainage (soilless ones are best
indoors), and use pots with at least one drainage hole. Plants in
pots four inches or larger may only need to be watered once a
week. This, of course, depends on plant size and your home.
Large plants in small pots will need water more often. Plants in
homes with forced air heat will dry out faster than with other forms of
heat, especially in winter when the heat is on often.
Lois Berg Stack, from the University of Maine Cooperative Extension,
says you can spread woodashes in your garden, or on your lawn, as a
substitute for lime. Wood ashes behave as lime, raising the pH of
the soil, making it more alkaline and less acid. Use only a light
layer, as too much can make your garden too alkaline for good plant
growth. It is best to add them according to soil test results.
Wood ashes are good to use, as they make good use of an available
resource. They work more quickly than lime to raise the soil
pH. They also add potassium, phosphorus, and small amounts of
other elements important for plant growth. Don't add wood ashes,
though, from burned trash, cardboard, or painted and stained
wood. These may be toxic to plants.
If you'd like to learn more questions and answers each month, as well
as daily tips, check out our yearly North Country Garden Calendar
online (uvm.edu/mastergardener). If you could use another calendar, or
didn't get one over the holidays, you can order this one there, as long
as supplies last.